Picasso, the Alcazaba and sardines on an open fire — the Málaga most visitors drive straight past.
Most people meet Málaga at its airport and drive straight past. That is a mistake. In the last decade the city has quietly become one of the best afternoons on the coast — Picasso was born here, and the museums, rooftops and old fishing barrios have caught up with the name.
Start at the Alcazaba, the Moorish fortress that climbs from the centre, then follow the shade to the cathedral and the covered market. End with espetos — sardines grilled on an open fire — at a chiringuito in Pedregalejo, where the city still eats with its feet in the sand.
It is forty-five minutes from Marbella and easily a full day. We walk it slowly, licensed guide and all, in Essential Málaga.
